Japan Day 3, Hiroshima
Posted By Mike Gfeller on August 18, 2014
I have been getting up every day around 2-230 AM. Still, I have been managing to get about 6 hours/day which keeps me running well enough. This allows me time to write my blog post while Wolfgang is still sleeping.
I used Hotels.com to book most of my rooms here. I tried to find the highest rated room with the best price and then took into account the location so the attractions would be relatively nearby. In some cases I was able to add breakfast for a slight up charge. If you are a breakfast person, I highly recommend this as we haven’t been disappointed. In Hiroshima the hotel was nice and with breakfast included for both of us I paid $136 for the night. Not bad.
The Peace Memorial opened at 9A, so we had breakfast around 7A. I posted pics already of our view from breakfast. It was on the 15th floor. Most hotels I’ve frequented don’t use that real estate for the breakfast buffet but I am glad they did.
As far as breakfast goes, it was fairly standard fare, with some exceptions. They had a version of bacon that was wider, almost like turkey bacon, and was good enough. The eggs were creamy and very yellow, almost as if they were scrambled only with the yolks but they were good. They had strange little sausages, like skinny hotdogs really, and two different types of grilled fish. We filled up and headed down to the room to formulate our plan.
We walked over the river to the Peace Memorial. There was a line to get into the museum so we decided to walk the grounds and wait for the line to diminish. This is a very special place. You can certainly feel it. I had my Nike cap on and decided it wasn’t proper to wear a cap there so I took it off and carried it with me until we left the grounds. We left the backpacks in the room as we had an 11A checkout. Anyway, I took pictures of the grounds and if I haven’t shared will be doing so soon.
There are several monuments there and I think I will just rely on my pictures as I don’t really want to define it. It’s sacred ground to the Japanese. At every monument there were volunteers keeping the place clean, sweeping the area with brooms, picking up trash, ready to explain (in Japanese) anything a person might want to know. These volunteers looked to be in their 70s and 80s. I can only imagine what this area means to them and how they may have been affected.
There are trees everywhere. This isn’t a situation where “nothing grows here”. Quite the contrary. Out of the ashes a beautiful park was born and probably a new country as well. My friend John was disappointed I didn’t spend more time in the museum (will get to that shortly) because he says the key to understanding the Japanese today has a lot to do with understanding what happened at Hiroshima. They are a peace loving people because they are the only country to have ever felt the power of such a weapon. This definitely comes across.
After strolling around the grounds, reading, taking pictures, and reflecting we crossed the river and booked tickets on the 1110 boat charter to Miyajima, an island south of Hiroshima. We then walked back across the river and entered the museum, which cost somewhere around .50 USD. This is not a museum where profit is a motive. I read a lot of the placards and learned much I didn’t know. I saw miniature scale models of the city before and after. I saw clothes singed by the fires, pictures of radiation burns, watches stopped at 8:15 (when the impact occurred), tin melted and twisted, and many other horrible things. After about an hour I’d had enough. It isn’t a place for laughter or smiling nor should it be. It is appropriately solemn. We left the museum and walked back to the hotel, packed up our bags and checked out.
We walked along the river about .25 miles to the boat ramp. We waited about ten minutes and got aboard this crammed little charter that would take us to Miyajima. The boat was enclosed so we didn’t get wet but it was very warm. Wolf took a nap (the kid can sleep anywhere!) and I just enjoyed the journey. We disembarked and began walking in the direction of the Itsukishima Shrine. To set the visual, there are a lot of people that live on the island. It has mountains on it and some topography but we were in a village and the path was paved. We passed a large building that housed the ticketing agencies for the various charters and ferries that would take one back. Immediately on the other side there were deer, amongst the tourists, just standing there being petted and eating whatever was thrown towards them. Wolfgang remarked that they acted more like goats than deer and he was right.
The path to the shrine is lined with shops. There were bakeries, eateries (lots of oysters, they are known for it), and gift shops galore. The path was between the shops and to cut down on the heat a series of canvas-like fabric was draped across the path so much of it was shaded. I may go back later and edit this and add some history of the shrine, but not this day. It didn’t cost much to get in. At the entrance was a well where you would go and dip water and use it to wash your hands prior to entering the grounds. The path took us through the shrine. Some parts are not accessible. There was a ceremony going on in one area and individuals next to us were bowing and holding their hands together. Clearly they were well versed on the procedures. Wolfgang said this wasn’t for us and he felt it would be disrespectful to watch as a bystander so we moved on.
After going through the shrine and taking pictures of the gateway to the shrine (located in the water) we headed back through the village and bought a few gifts for the family. We decided to take a ferry back to the mainland south of Hiroshima and then take a train back to the JR station in Hiroshima. This would be much faster and cheaper. In fact, it was free! We went to purchase ferry tickets and found out it was a JR ferry. With our JR passes there was no charge. We boarded the ferry and in about 15 minutes were back on the mainland. At this point my feet were hurting badly and I needed to sit. That wasn’t going to happen because nobody in this country sits.
We walked about .25 miles to the JR station (think subway, not bullet train) and asked about getting to Hiroshima. The train was leaving in 15 minutes so we headed up to the platform and waited while standing as again, no seating was available. We boarded the train and again, standing room only. Ugh. It was about 30-40 minutes to the Hiroshima JR station. We asked about reserving seats to Osaka and they were all sold out. It was about 1:30 and I was starting to get worried we wouldn’t get there. I Skyped John and he gave me some suggestions but mostly reassured me it would work out. I thought there might be a language issue so I went back to JR ticketing and asked a different guy. He said there was a fast train (less stops) to Osaka at 1517 but non-reserved seating only so we would have to get in line early to get a spot. JR was starting to frustrate us.
We shopped (no place to sit) and headed up to the platform around 1450. We got in line behind a red-dreaded Aussie and her mother who were on holiday and trying like hell to get to Osaka. The redhead was pregnant and clearly not comfortable but very friendly, which probably explained her current condition. We boarded the bullet train but had standing room only. I could barely stand at this point and was biting my teeth in pain. Keep in mind we had these heavy backpacks on our back since we got to the island. My phone’s battery died. About halfway to Osaka (45 minutes into a 1.5 hour trip), we made a stop and several people exited, which gave us seats. We rested for the next 45 minutes. Wolfgang slept.
Upon arriving at Osaka, which we were altogether familiar with at this point from the previous day’s adventures, we hailed a taxi to our hotel, the Hotel Monterey La Soeur Osaka. We got there to check in and they told us we were at the wrong Hotel Monterey! Are you kidding me? We had just paid $25 for nothing and that wasn’t all. We had to get another cab from Hotel Monterey 1 and pay another $25 to get to Hotel Monterey #2. We got there around 5:30, drenched with sweat, me hobbling, and literally dropped ourselves into our room. After checking in with John and connecting to wifi I crashed. I woke around 8:30 and realized the hotel restaurants stop serving at, you guessed it, 8:30. Osaka was pissing me off at this point. Now this is the third largest city in Japan and has a great nightlife but we weren’t in that part of Osaka. Wolf and I were both hungry and we had resigned ourselves to protein bars when John Skyped me and asked how we were doing. I think I was pretty frustrated at that point. I didn’t want to spend more money on cabs, I couldn’t walk, and I just needed a pick me up. John is one of my oldest friends. Though we haven’t spent much time together over the past 25 years, we will always be like brothers. He told me to hang on more than once (I wasn’t amused) and then asked me what type of pizza I liked. I gave him Wolfgang’s favorite, pepperoni and black olive, and he in turn was skyping his wife to make it all happen. Needless to say I reported to the hotel lobby 15 minutes later per his instructions and was the proud recipient of one large pepperoni and black olive pizza, delivered by Dominos and paid for by John and his wife from Tokyo. It was the best pizza I’ve ever had and it wasn’t any different than the standard Domino’s pizza and yet it was.
I don’t want my readers to think I am not enjoying my trip or am not grateful, because both would not be correct. I love this trip and am extremely grateful, but transportation here can be frustrating and my plantar issues are not fun or expected. In the days ahead you will see I will deliberately chart a course of action to reduce standing wherever possible. Walking isn’t bad, but standing with the pack is challenging at best.
The good news is that tomorrow we head to Kyoto and will stay in that hotel 3 days, which means the backpack can come off and remain in the room while we are out seeing the sights. We’ll also see how good the baggage service works, because the two bags we had shipped from Tokyo should be there waiting for us.
With a belly full of pizza chased with a couple Ki-rins from the hotel vending machine, I find myself at the end of day 3.